HERE I AM LORD SEND ME

I has been nearly 25 years since I had hiked carrying a back pack (or sac a dos au Francaise). Then, it was a much heavier pack and I was carrying a rifle. It was so much easier when I was told what to do, what to carry, and did not have any idea how far we were going. It is so much more difficult when you are told where to go, but how fast, what to carry, and where to stay are your choice. I this case God has told me start here and go there and I am 50 years old; but, the “how to dos” are left to me. Anyway, I now find myself in Saint Privat D’Allier about 15 miles from Le Puy currently saying Lord why did you send me. My shoulders are sore, my legs unsteady and I must take tender steps when I stand up from sitting because my muscles scream that they do not want to move any more.

So, this morning I had to rush to get to the pilgrim’s mass at 7 am. I woke up with more than enough time, not having the best sleep on a single bed, but not the worst either. I began my morning devotional and the next thing I know, I only have 20 minutes to finish packing, eat, and take the three minute walk to the cathedral. Anyway I am glad that I did not skip breakfast: bread (oh French bread), butter (ohhhhh French butter), jelly, OJ, and a bowl of coffee with milk. Obviously not because of the grandness of the breakfast, but because of the intimacy of the moment of 15 to twenty people most of them strangers to each other in the small common dinning area being led by Georges singing ‘Ultreia’ (look it up if you want to know–in French of course). At first, I was amazed that all these people just knew this song specifically for ‘le chemin’ and I was thinking well it just must be one of those ‘French’ things. Then, I saw someone sing the song, apparently, as they looked at piece of paper and realized. “I have one too!” So, luckily I was able to join in during the last half. The number of pilgrims at mass amazed me, about 200. First there was the regular mass for the city parish and the pilgrims alike. Then, afterward, was the pilgrim blessing by the bishop. Out of about 150 people I was 1 of 3 Americans (the bishop asked & counted), about 8 Canadians, a handful each of Brits and Germans, and the rest were French. Really far more people than I expected.

As I began my walk, I started up with such excitement that had built up over the last months, but particularly the last week. However, the excitement eventually gave way to the reality and my thoughts for the journey became more clear. I remembered a challenge given to us by our Pastor at Carmel Presbyterian, Rich Duncan, had given us about 2 1/2 years ago. I had started but did not finished memorizing the Book of Romans Chapter 8. I have decided to every day memorize the next verse of Romans 8; so, that by the end of this journey it will come out without thought from my mouth. I also lay down this Gauntlet to anyone out there reading.

Finally, walking through the French countryside again has been refreshing. For so may years, I have seen how Americans farm their land in big industrially run farms. Huge fields are farmed at one time. It has its benefits as we are able to feed humans all over this world; but it is not very personal. Here farming is very personable each farmer has a plot or plots of land seal off by rock divisions and their crops are raised without irrigation. It just leads to a feeling that the people of the farming regions of France have a much closer touch to their land.

I ask for your blessings. This journey is a little more daunting today than it was yesterday.

And I heard the voice of the Lord saying, “Whom shall I send, and who will go for us?” Then I said, “Here I am! Send me. And he said, “Go, and say to this people: “‘Keep on hearing, but do not understand; keep on seeing, but do not perceive. Make the heart of this people dull, and their ears heavy, and blind their eyes; lest they see with their eyes, and hear with their ears, and understand with their hearts, and turn and be healed.” – Isaiah 6:8-10.

Planing Realized

Today was a slow day. I felt that I had seen all the sights of Le Puy yesterday; so, today was spent wandering the weekly Saturday farmer’s market. The market put every other open air market I’ve attended to shame, even though the population of Le Puy it self is about 18,000 with the surround area about 78,000 people (Monterey has about 27,900 with a total of about 101,000 from Marina to Carmel by comparison); yet, two city squares with several streets were packed elbow to elbow with people shopping for fresh vegetables, eggs and meats. Then in another area about three blocks away was a flea market. What impresses me so much is general good feeling of this small town. It just can not be overstated. I then picked up a couple last minute items around town and had my laundry cleaned.

In the evening, I took a walk to the pilgrim’s hostel, up the hill just near the Cathedral. When I entered from the courtyard, I met three men who were sitting quietly in the communal dining room. As I entered, they nearly jumped up to greet me as if they were only waiting for me to arrive. Although each of them eagerly offered their hands, I will never forget George who offered me his left hand, his right was missing, but he greeted me with a bright, open smile and it was as if we were long lost friends. They made sure that my name was hand written into the registry book for tomorrow and I slipped out as new pilgrims arrived for the night. I left the intimacy of the greeting and stepped out into the desolate street as the bells of the cathedral tolled at seven. I was over come again with emotions for the second time on this journey. I had to sit on the steps outside the weather beaten door of an ancient house on a narrow street to briefly sob and dry my tears thinking, ‘what is happening to you Kurt!’ But, my tears were cut short by two well dressed couples, about my age, seemingly husbands and wives, all caught up in their conversation laughing as they walked to dinner. It made me happy and I suddenly missed my wife.

It might seem a little contrived; but, it is important to me. When I enter the court yard of the hostel tomorrow at 3 o’clock pm, then and only then will I consider myself a Pilgrim/Pelegrín/Peregrino!

 

“I will instruct you and teach you in the way you should go; I will counsel you with my eye upon you. Be not like a horse or a mule, without understanding, which must be curbed with bit and bridle, or it will not stay near you. Many are the sorrows of the wicked, but steadfast love surrounds the one whom trusts in the Lord. Be glad in the Lord, and rejoice, O righteous, and shout for joy, all you upright in heart!” PSALM 32:8-11.

 

Je suis la servante du seigneur!

Yesterday I arrived in the city of Le Puy-en-Velay where I will begin the walking portion of my pilgrimage. After I settled in at my hotel, I conducted my first foray into the city. City plan in hand, I meandered my way through the medieval city center in a light rain to the the bottom of the steep street that leads to the steep steps of Cathedral Norte Dame du Puy. After conquering the slick cobblestone slope of the street, I triumphantly, and breathlessly, assented the stairs to be greeted by and incredible view of the city that was shrouded in grey. It will not be my only ascent to this august monument, for I make another ascent in the early morning of Monday where I will attend the pilgrim mass at 7 am. After which, I will then descend the steep slope and start the route, at least the start will be down hill.

Today I conducted a walking tour of the the town using a brochure from the city’s information bureau. The following are some of my photos.

STREET LEADING UP TO THE STEPS OF THE CATHEDRAL.

Looking up at bell tower of Cathedral

Looking up at Chapel of Saint Michael.

Looking up to Chapel of Saint Michael

Facade of Chapel de Saint Michael

View of Statue of Norte-Dame de France and Cathedral (just to right) from Chapel Saint Michael

A house

Looking up at Statue of Norte Dame de France

View of Chapel of Saint Saint Michael from Norte Dame de France

View of city from base of Statue of Norte Dame de France

View of Cathedral and City from inside the Statue itself.

Finally, after praying for several minutes in a very small chapel called the ‘Oratoire Saint Gabriel’ at the base of Chapel of Saint Michael, which I almost missed on the side as I came down the sharp steps, I saw on a wall of the chapel the words, “Je suis la servante du seigneur!” Which translates, “I am the servant of the Lord!”

I’ve decided this will be the phrase to which I will march on my walk.

Gettin’ Ready

It’s 5:45 am and my flight to Paris is less than 12 hours away. This is starting to get real. I think I’ve got all the items that I will take with me. I packed up my backpack last night and checked the weight: twenty-five pounds. I’m glad, my goal was thirty pounds, but now as I consider 963 miles of walking, I’m thinking twenty might be too heavy. Oh well, I might be discarding some things along “the way”.

The last couple of weeks people have been asking me, “Are you ready?” And I’m never quite certain how to answer the question because I’m not quite sure what question they are asking. Am I ready for the flight: well I have my ticket, but it seems as I get older spending many hours on an airplane is harder and harder. This one – just out of shear bad luck – is 18 hours long. So, my complete answer to this form of the question is an emphatic- NO. I am not ready. Do I have all the stuff I am taking with me ready: I have my boots (broken in), my cloths (trousers, shorts, long/short sleeve shirts, underwear, socks), rain resistant jacket, toiletries, iPad, sleeping bag and yes PASSPORT (third time renewed). BUT can I really know what I am going to need for every contingency on the trail—Survey says– NO. Am I physically ready for the hike: How can you be ready for a 963 (by the book) mile journey that will take about 65 days to complete–So short answer: NO. Am I ready emotionally for the journey: I will miss Juliette everyday and I don’t know if I have prepared her enough for me being gone so long. So, NO. Am I spiritually ready for the pilgrimage: If I was, Why would I need to take one?

Which leads me to the 1st question of this journey  which I borrow from John Bierley’s book A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago (pg. 38):

How do you differentiate pilgrimage from a long walk?

My answer: A long walk is a physical journey from which you expect improved fitness and perhaps an emotional lift. A pilgrimage is a long walk through which you endure physical, emotional, and spiritual hardships for the specific purpose of attaining a better understanding of God and an understanding of the purpose he has for you in this life.

“Hear my prayer, O Lord, and give ear to my cry; hold not your peace at my tears! For I am a sojourner with you, a guest, like all my fathers. Look away from me, that I may smile again, before I depart and am no more!”  Psalms 39: 12-13.