Today was a slow day. I felt that I had seen all the sights of Le Puy yesterday; so, today was spent wandering the weekly Saturday farmer’s market. The market put every other open air market I’ve attended to shame, even though the population of Le Puy it self is about 18,000 with the surround area about 78,000 people (Monterey has about 27,900 with a total of about 101,000 from Marina to Carmel by comparison); yet, two city squares with several streets were packed elbow to elbow with people shopping for fresh vegetables, eggs and meats. Then in another area about three blocks away was a flea market. What impresses me so much is general good feeling of this small town. It just can not be overstated. I then picked up a couple last minute items around town and had my laundry cleaned.

In the evening, I took a walk to the pilgrim’s hostel, up the hill just near the Cathedral. When I entered from the courtyard, I met three men who were sitting quietly in the communal dining room. As I entered, they nearly jumped up to greet me as if they were only waiting for me to arrive. Although each of them eagerly offered their hands, I will never forget George who offered me his left hand, his right was missing, but he greeted me with a bright, open smile and it was as if we were long lost friends. They made sure that my name was hand written into the registry book for tomorrow and I slipped out as new pilgrims arrived for the night. I left the intimacy of the greeting and stepped out into the desolate street as the bells of the cathedral tolled at seven. I was over come again with emotions for the second time on this journey. I had to sit on the steps outside the weather beaten door of an ancient house on a narrow street to briefly sob and dry my tears thinking, ‘what is happening to you Kurt!’ But, my tears were cut short by two well dressed couples, about my age, seemingly husbands and wives, all caught up in their conversation laughing as they walked to dinner. It made me happy and I suddenly missed my wife.

It might seem a little contrived; but, it is important to me. When I enter the court yard of the hostel tomorrow at 3 o’clock pm, then and only then will I consider myself a Pilgrim/Pelegrín/Peregrino!

“I will instruct you and teach you in the way you should go; I will counsel you with my eye upon you. Be not like a horse or a mule, without understanding, which must be curbed with bit and bridle, or it will not stay near you. Many are the sorrows of the wicked, but steadfast love surrounds the one whom trusts in the Lord. Be glad in the Lord, and rejoice, O righteous, and shout for joy, all you upright in heart!” PSALM 32:8-11.